Different types of lock | AC Locksmiths Norfolk

What Simple Security Steps will make your home much Safer?

Simple security steps to help make your home safer

Every other week, I help my kids out with the delivery of the local community magazine. We do just over two hundred houses in a small town. Every time I do these deliveries, I am shocked to see people’s front doors with keys in which I could have taken, using their own cars as getaway vehicles (‘It was only for five minutes,’ they tell me), or doors ajar, just waiting for someone to poke their head inside with no one around. In these latter cases, you can’t use the letterbox as the door swings, but you can open the door a bit more, unchallenged, which reveals all sorts of easily stolen items. I also see letters piled up, indicating no one has been home for a few days at least (easy prey). Just today, I noticed the magazine I posted two weeks ago, which told me a lot.

I do also see good things, and it is those I would like to talk about because they offer security you wouldn’t think about. An awful lot of the non-destructive entries I do are through the letterbox. And if I can do that, the burglar can. So if you have locks that look like this on the inside:

Thumb turn

Night latchI can get to these through the letterbox and open the door in seconds. Even kitemarked products are not impossible to open. Leaving keys on the inside of the lock is just as bad. You can get letterbox guards that stop me using my specialist tool, but even these can be bypassed. But here is something that is going to cause me problems.

A letter cage stops all tools being able to get more than a few inches through the letterbox.

Better still, bolt your letterbox shut and get one of these external letterboxes;

Not only will this mean no one gets in through your letter plate, but a separate letterbox at the end of your garden will have you loved by the postman and paper deliverers everywhere.

If you have any questions regarding the above information, please get in touch via any of the methods on my contacts page.

Thanks for reading.

admin March 17, 2019

Improving your home security / letterbox security / make my home safer /

Blow torch attacks and door maintenance

It seems there is a new spate of attacks in the UK where the burglars use a blow torch on plastic (upvc) double glazed doors. Because they are using fire, this makes a major mess of the door and frame. You are not just looking at replacement locks, but a whole replacement door. If you have the anti-snap cylinders available in DIY stores, then you are still going to be a victim with this sort of attack. If you have an inner anti-snap protector, as used on many new build properties, the burglar will still have a go before he sees the protector. You might not be burgled, but your door is ruined.

To be properly protected, you need the advice of a good local locksmith who has access to the very best locks and equipment. They will provide you with the locks that show the burglar they are wasting their time attacking your property. The potential intruder needs to see from a distance that easier pickings are to be had elsewhere.

Thinking anyone can get in if they really want to is unfortunately usually correct, but burglars want to get in as quickly and quietly as possible. The other worry with this blow torch method is heat transference; the intruder can see the damage they are doing to the outside, but they cannot see if they are causing flames inside. It is a very dangerous form of attack especially as nearly half of all burglaries occur when someone is home.
Moving on from that last point, recent reports show that adults and children suffer long term effects of insecurity following burglaries.
Finally, while I was halfway through writing this piece about blow torch attacks, I had a recall from a customer whose lock had failed. Once I got the lock open, I discovered the door was sticking a lot at the bottom. Where the door was not closing properly, the latch was being placed under long term pressure, which led to the lock breaking internally. Doors warp, drop, swell and buckle. Kids will try and slam them with the bolt extended and all sorts of other damage can occur. As a general rule of thumb, if the door is even marginally difficult to lock/unlock, then something, somewhere, is going to be out of alignment. If your door needs a boot at the bottom to get it closed, do something about it before the cost becomes prohibitive. If the door is ok, but the lock is still difficult, a good locksmith will lock at the problem without charge. It’s then up to you whether or not you enter into a situation where the locksmith corrects the problem for a fee. If your lock is stiff and you don’t sort out the problem now, chances are it will fail when you get home from the school run with three screaming kids and their buddies on a sleepover and all of them will be wanting the toilet. On top of that, all the local locksmiths will be busy for the next seven hours or not even picking up the phone, meaning you have to call a national, who will charge you double, and you will wish you had gotten around to dealing with the problem when time was on your side. This same advice applies to locks where you need a special knack to unlock it. That knack might have been good for five years, or five minutes, but sooner or later, a lock that does not function normally, will fail and it will be at an inopportune moment.
Thanks for reading.
If you have any questions regarding the above, please get in touch via the contacts page.

admin February 28, 2019

Home maintenance for locks / Keeping safe / Minimising risk of burglary in your home /

Which lock have I got?

Can you see your lock? Do you know what type of lock you have? Is it secure? Is it insurance standard? – All are important questions to look at your home security.

This weekend, I found myself walking through the high street of a Norfolk coastal village. One that is much quieter in winter because most of the homes are holiday lets. My wife, who is usually bored by my lock information, has obviously been taking in a lot more than she cares to admit, because she pointed to a door and told me it was not insurance rated. She was correct. This prompted me to look at all the other doors we passed and I soon discovered the majority of houses in that street would not receive insurance pay outs if they were burgled. On top of that, many would have been extremely easy for the burglar to gain access to.

So here is another visual guide to what makes you a burglar’s target, and what makes him look elsewhere.

If you have a door with one of these Horizontal sashlocks;

then beware! Most of these in Norfolk at least are three lever locks. If this is the only lock on your door, the burglar might just have a go because they have short bolts, no anti-drill reinforcement and are usually quite old. The five lever versions are very strong, but equally very expensive and require more holes in the door. Having a five lever deadlock fitted as primary security is the cheapest option that will satisfy the insurance people.

If I see a door with handles like the one in this image below,

then I have no clue as to the strength of the lock fitted into the door as the mechanism is essentially hidden when shut. While your insurance is still going to demand a five lever version of this sashlock, the burglar is less likely to waste time on this unless he knows what is in your house and is specifically going after it.

Now, if you have a lock like this as your only security, then get it looked at right now. This is the nightlatch (often called a “Yale” lock) and will probably take seconds to bypass. Seriously, I could walk up to one of these and be in so fast, a passerby wouldn’t even notice I didn’t use a key. There are some that have handy little additions to slow the burglar down, but mostly it is so easy, the burglar has nothing to lose when attacking this type of lock. The outside of the British Standard version of this type of lock looks like this.

When I am faced with this type of nightlatch as a locksmith, I know I’m going to be earning every penny of my fee and there is probably going to be sweating and cursing going on before that door is open. The burglar is simply going somewhere else. Again, these are more expensive than their basic cousins, but they do have many features to make life harder for the intruder.

Next, we have the upvc door;

Or composite doors;

These doors are supposed to be super secure. After all, they have all those extra hooks and bolts and rollers that engage when the handle is lifted. But the door is only as good as the lock, and the standard locks are not very good.

Here is the standard lock,

And here is what happens with cylinder snapping.

So, while these locks are still acceptable by your insurance provider, they will not deter the burglar.

To do that, you need a cylinder like this one;
From a distance, the intruder can see the lock is not standard. If he does get close, he will see the kite mark. These locks are reinforced where the standard ones are weak, and actually designed to break closer to the front, meaning the attacker still cannot get to the bits he wants to.

Finally, if you have any version of a rim lock which will be in a similar style to this,

as your only door security, then you need something else as well. I find these on many farm houses and older buildings. They are very poor for stopping the burglars and easy to spot from the outside because they look like the horizontal locks but the key hole is usually lower or higher than the knob handle, so the intruder can identify them with ease.

There are many variations to all the types of lock mentioned above and this information is for guidance only. If you feel your security is not adequate, then ask your local locksmith for a security check. If he/she is any good, they will provide this service for free. Please also check elderly friends and relatives. I often visit older people who have lived with the same locks since before British Standard kite marks were even thought of. By talking to them about their security, you just might be saving them from an intruder.

Should you have any questions about the information above, please feel free to get in touch via any of the ways on my contacts page.

Thanks for reading.

admin March 1, 2017

What lock have I got? / What's wrong with my lock? / Which lock? /

Scandinavian Locks

All about Scandinavian locks

While Scandinavian multi-point locking mechanisms are not very common in Norfolk, there are enough of them to warrant a mention.

The locks look something like this :

These locks operate with a mechanism that typically employs two hooks that come out from the door and fit into specially cut spaces within the door frame, just like many upvc doors. They are always fitted to wooden doors, which is where the problems start.

In Scandinavian countries they are geared up for cold, damp weather and treat woods accordingly. Here in the UK, we seem to use any wood going and think a coat of paint or varnish will be adequate. That works okay for standard locks where all the working parts are protected within a lock case, but locking mechanisms have exposed moving parts which get pinched and moved by doors that expand and contract in wet weather. The untreated inside of UK doors holds water like a sponge, right next to the metal of these mechanisms which quickly become prone to rust. The problem is compounded by the fact that there used to be several variants of these mechanisms available, but now all but one design have been discontinued, meaning that if your mechanism does go wrong, the replacement is likely to be different. An example being a job I have recently done where everything looked identical, but the door needed much chisel work to accept the replacement.

The next problem is cost. These units are extremely expensive. A complete set up can cost between £250 and £400 depending on who you use to fit the device with labour and VAT to be added to that figure.

Finally, these locks are not particularly secure. While many insurance companies will accept them as adequate, they do not get the British Standard 3621 rating I would recommend to feel properly protected.

If you think you might have Scandinavian locks and they have not been serviced recently, it might well be worth contacting your local locksmith to have a look at them, especially if they are hard to lock, or the handles have gone floppy. A little maintenance now, might save a lot of cost later, or at least alert you to the likely cost of replacement, rather than have it all come as a shock when you can least afford it.

Should you have any questions regarding the above information, please feel free to get in touch via any of the methods on my contacts page.

Thanks for reading.

admin August 20, 2016

insurance standard locks / What are Scandinavian locks /

Different locks explained Part 4

Having looked at the locking barrels for double glazed doors in my previous blog, this blog is dedicated to the actual locking mechanisms themselves. There are several different ways in which they work.

The first and most basic is called a roller;

When the door closes and you lift the handles, it simply rolls into position behind a keep that sits on your door frame and looks like this.

Very few doors only have rollers on their own nowadays as they are incredibly easy to bypass. Their main purpose is to hold the door a bit tighter when closed to stop draughts and they might be the only option on small doors. They are harder to bypass on smaller doors. Without giving the reader tips on how to break into a home, I can only suggest that if you have a double glazed door and it only has these rollers holding it in place, you might want to seek advice from your local locksmith to see if alternatives are available.

Over time, these rollers can shift a little in position, making the door difficult to lock and unlock. You can see from this next image that the correct sized allen key (hex key) can be inserted to rotate the roller. A quarter turn should be tried before attempting to lock the door again and if that does not work, then a further quarter turn and so on until you have established the problem is not with the roller or the problem is fixed.

If this does not rectify the problem, it might mean the door has dropped a little and simply moving the keep up or down a few millimetres might do the job, but at this point, I would suggest calling your local locksmith as there could be more serious problems to contend with.
……………………………………………………………………………………………………

A step up from the roller is the mushroom;

It is more secure than the roller because it slides into a slotted keep where it holds tight. There is nothing to adjust on these mushrooms, so if it causes trouble, and the door cannot be adjusted, the only option is to move the keep accordingly.
……………………………………………………………………………………………………
Next we have hooks and bolts that come out of the mechanism like this:

The hooks and bolts themselves do not adjust, but again if the door is out of position, there are adjustments that can be made, this time to the keeps, that look something like this.

You can see from the picture that an allen key will allow you to adjust this keep. Some only allow backwards and forwards movement, so again, if you are unsure, please call your local locksmith.

Hopefully, you will never have to see behind the scenes of one of these mechanisms, so here is what goes on in the hook case itself.

You can see this one has a hook and bolt. These parts do not often go wrong by themselves, but when they do, the door is extremely difficult to open without damage to either the door itself or the door frame. Therefore basic maintenance is vital and any signs of stiffness when lifting the handles should be dealt with by a professional.

We can now take a look at the gearbox, or centre case, where all main action takes place. There are many brands of these each with differing sizes and shapes within the brand, so this picture is just one example;

This example is called a double spindle and can be set up in two ways. The standard way is to have both handles operating through this hole.

In this case, the door will only be secure when the handles are lifted and the key is turned. However you can have handles where the inside handle operates through the top hole, but the outer handle is slightly lower and goes through this hole

In this case, everything operates exactly the same, but the lower hole does not allow the latch to pull back, meaning that you need the key to get back in. of course, if you are going further than the end of the garden, you should engage the locking mechanism completely as normal, but with this configuration, the door is at least technically secure.

These next two pictures show the hole that the locking barrel slides through and the barrel in place.

This is the simplest part of the lock. Everything inside above that, however is a minefield of cogs, levers and other moving parts. Please don’t expect your locksmith to be able to open these up and replace inner parts as with so many products around, knowledge of every one would be amazing and the locksmith would need an extra trailer to carry the spares, which would only be second hand as our suppliers do not provide anything other than complete products.

The centre keep for this part, looks something like this.

And again, we can adjust certain parts like the latch keep on this one. Loosening these screws, allows the keep to move forwards and backwards.

I have come across many problems where simply adjusting this part, which may have moved when someone slammed the door, has rectified the situation. Quite often, the locking mechanism will not operate if the latch is still being pushed in, which it can if this part is in the wrong position.
……………………………………………………………………………………………………
Now, in this blog, I have mentioned doors dropping, which they often do. A sudden gust of wind, stroppy teens slamming, or even direct sunlight warping can all affect how the door sits in the frame.
Most modern upvc doors have hinges that are adjustable. If you have a door with hinges like this;

Then there is a good chance the door can be adjusted. The picture shows the one type of hinge that can be a little awkward because you have to prize it apart gently but firmly to get at the adjuster inside. Most actually have a plastic plug easily visible, which when removed, allow access to another allen key adjuster inside. If you are in any doubt, call your local locksmith. But if you feel like taking the job on yourself, half a turn of the adjuster should be all you move before trying to lock the door again. That should be enough to tell you if the door is easier or harder to lock. If harder, then you need to turn the opposite way. Remember, there are anything from two to four hinges that may be adjusted, so this is not an easy job.

Should you have any questions regarding the above information, please do not hesitate to contact me through any of the methods on my contacts page.
Thanks for reading

admin February 3, 2016

Different locks explained / Lock mechanisms /

Different Locks explained Part 3

This section of Locks Explained looks at the Euro Cylinder:

The Euro cylinder is most commonly used in UPVC double glazed doors with multi-point locking mechanisms. However, some mortice locks have them as well, but the principle is the same. Turning the key in the barrel turns a cam which then operates the locking mechanism in the main body of the mechanism itself. I will do a piece about locking mechanisms in the future, but for now, I am going to concentrate on the cylinder itself.

The first thing I need to draw attention to is the thumb turn – shown here:

Instead of being operated by a key on the inside, it has this handy part which you can turn to unlock and lock the door.

Very few people have this on their locks, but if you do and your lock does not display a British Standard Kite Mark, be warned, because they are extremely easy to bypass. Without the Kite mark, if this lock is on your outer door it might just as well be left unlocked. I do see them a lot in buildings with secure entrances, but if you are in any doubt, talk to your local locksmith and/or building manager.

Now let’s take a look at a Euro cylinder without the thumb turn, which is the type most of you will have in your double glazed doors:

Almost every door that requires you to lift the handles before locking, has one of these going through it.

When the cylinder is in place, a screw passes through the mechanism and holds it tight by screwing through this hole.

You may have heard the term ‘cylinder snapping.’ When a burglar uses this method, this is the part that breaks. You can see there is not much metal here holding the whole thing together.

The next part is the cam:

When the key is rotated, it too rotates which you can see here. This picture shows the cam position when the key is out.

and this one with the key in and part turned;
Without going into too much detail, snapping the cylinder allows the burglar to operate the parts of the mechanism which the cam would move, and they can be inside your home in less than a minute without the need for any power tools.

The good news is that there are a few things you can do to stop this. You can have an anti-snapping device fitted inside the handles. You can have new handles that are resistant to attack. But they do not stop traditional lock picking and drilling is still an option for the determined burglar. Also, the insurance company will still pay up when you are burgled because for now at least, most accept these locks as suitable. In fact, if your locks have to be replaced, and these were the ones you had before, they will only pay for like for like replacements leaving you just as vulnerable. Many burglary victims will tell you that once it has happened to you, it will likely happen again.

So what if you don’t want to make that call to the insurance company after the burglary? What can you do to drastically reduce the chances of your home being burgled? Well, firstly, you can go to your local DIY chain and buy a BS3621 kite marked cylinder. These are anti-snap and in many cases will deter the opportunist. However, they can be picked (with patience) and can be bypassed in other ways. It’s a lot harder, but you still might need specialist handles to be really secure.

Or you can opt for the ultimate Euro Cylinder. At the time of writing, and to the best of my knowledge, this is the best cylinder you can have without the need for additional parts;

You can see from this picture some studs that run through the bottom. These

hold a reinforced bar aimed at the prevention of cylinder snapping.

Coupled with this part, which is weakened intentionally so that the front snaps off, rather than the whole thing breaking in the middle. The burglar is not going to easily get to the internal parts of your door.

From the front, the lock looks like this;

It is highly recognisable from a distance, meaning the seasoned burglar might not even venture past your front gate because he knows this will be no easy break in. Someone who takes the time to put one of these locks on is probably going to have increased window security as well, so why bother looking when next door’s house looks just as big, has just as nice a car on the drive, but has visibly easier locks to get past? If however he does get close enough to take a good look at the lock, not only will he see that kite mark, but he will also see those three stars. Those stars have a big message. They state that this lock is so good, it doesn’t need the extras. You can make your security three stars with a British Standard lock and some other bits, but this lock does it all in one. I’ve had to bypass one so far. I have specialist equipment and I can tell you it took me a lot more time than a burglar would probably be willing to take and I had to replace a fair few tools afterwards.

So, you can’t snap it, and it is extremely resistant to power tools. What about picking? I’d love to see a TV show where the hero gets out his trusty lock picking set and faces this!

This is the key;

To pick this lock, not only do you have to get these dimples in the right place, you have to get them the right size, because the pins inside the lock are doubled with a pin within a pin. Not only that, but the flat circle you can see is a magnet which can appear anywhere along that key and must tally with the correct magnet position in the lock itself.

For extra security, very few people can cut you new keys for these locks. Only the holder of the key card that comes with the lock can get copies made.

Here is the card;

So, you can rest assured no one is going to make copies. Even those few who do cut these keys cannot copy from another key. It must be done from the code on the card. That makes these locks brilliant for landlords of long term tenants and short term holiday lets.

I like these locks so much, they secure my own home.

If you have any questions regarding the above information, please feel free to get in touch via the contacts page.

Thanks for reading

admin January 13, 2016

Different locks explained / Which lock is best? /

Different Locks Explained Part 2

The mortice lock (sometimes spelt mortise) and often referred to as a ‘Chubb’ lock.

When your home insurance talks about 5 lever locks, it is referring to this type of lock and not the multi-point locking system of the type found on upvc type doors.You can have two main types of mortice lock.

This is the deadlock;

And this is the sash lock – essentially a deadlock with retractable latch;

The two pictures are 5 lever mortice locks and made to British Standard 3621 quality. The following pictures show what makes them such high quality:

The black layers you can see in between the hard steel plates, is designed to snag hack-saws, stopping any potential attack where a wide gap between the door and frame might allow for this to happen. The bolt itself comes out a long way to ensure anyone attempting to ‘pop’ the door with a crowbar is in for a serious struggle. In burglaries I have attended where the door has been opened with a crowbar, the wood of the door has split rather than the lock breaking. That is because the keep that sits in the door frame is a solid construction as well. Two and three lever mortice locks have a much smaller bolt and usually, the keep is just a thin piece of metal that goes over holes cut into the wood.

A five lever mortice lock keep looks like this:

It will be made of a thick hard plate metal and secured with four deep set screws.Two and three lever mortice locks can be picked relatively easily, because tools can be inserted up into the lock from the key hole from where the burglar can manipulate the levers.

On a BS3621 5 lever mortice lock, that method of attack is made all the harder by the anti-pick curtain, shown here:

This round bit is the part you put your key into and stops any manipulation of the levers above.

You can see it again in this next picture which also shows the hardened steel plate that stops standard drills making any holes where burglars need them to move the levers and therefore open the lock.

Levers

Now, onto the levers themselves. Because this is a 5 lever lock, there are obviously five of them. That means trying to pick one of these (if the burglar is willing to spend the time trying to get past the anti-pick curtain), is really difficult. There is a technique, but it requires holding just the right pressure as you do each lever in turn. If you make it to the fifth one, you are either very determined, or very lucky. These levers also have anti-pick traps, which in some cases, will render the lock completely unusable. Certain brands wear very easily and poorly cut copied keys can set these traps off, so make sure the person cutting any extra keys uses ones that have the brand name on them and has plenty of experience.
Here are the levers:

If you just don’t know whether or not your locks are up to standard, there is one way to ensure it meets the necessary standards. It should display the British Standard Kite Mark like this:

Now this piece only covers the basic mortice locks. There are other mortice locks which are in a bit of a grey area. For example, horizontal mortice locks which have the key hole and usually a knob on a side by side set up rather than a lever handle above the key hole. If you have one of these, the chances are it is a 3 lever lock and not insurance compliant as a standalone lock. There are 5 lever versions but these are expensive and do not always work with older doors. You can also have narrow fit mortice locks for doors that do not have much space into which a lock will fit. Non-standard 5 lever mortice locks do not carry BS3621 kite marks, but often satisfy insurance companies if they are made aware of the circumstances in which they have been fitted.

If you have any doubts at all, contact your local locksmith who can either advise on your best course of action, and may be prepared to word a letter to your insurance company explaining unusual circumstances. Remember even if the burglar gets in through a door that has the appropriate lock on it, some insurance companies will refuse to pay out if any one of your other locks is not up to standard.

If you require any more information regarding the locks mentioned above, please do not hesitate to contact me using any of the methods on my contacts page. If there are any other locksmith related topics you would like me to cover, please either leave a comment or drop me an email, my address can be found on the contacts page.

Thanks for reading.

admin December 16, 2015

5 lever mortice locks / British Standard locks / Which lock? /

1 2 3

What Simple Security Steps will make your home much Safer?

Blow torch attacks and door maintenance

Which lock have I got?

Scandinavian Locks

Different locks explained Part 4

Different Locks explained Part 3

This section of Locks Explained looks at the Euro Cylinder:

Different Locks Explained Part 2

The mortice lock (sometimes spelt mortise) and often referred to as a ‘Chubb’ lock.

Call AC Locksmiths on 07846643176

No call out charges.